March 3, 2021
Kendall Jenner Tequila Launch - What Went Wrong?

It’s the kind of news avalanche that would make one take a shot.

When news broke yesterday that model Kendall Jenner was behind buzzy start-up (and award-winning) new tequila 818, at least a portion of the reaction was loud dismay. Social media users crowded onto her Instagram to excoriate and congratulate her in turns.

Commenters left quotes such as, “So basically all you did was try tequilas other people made until you liked one a lot?” and “As we know, real Tequila is from Mexico.”

People can like or dislike celebs like Ms. Jenner, that’s their right. But let’s break down some the critiques and explain why some of the dislike might be misplaced.

The “It’s Not Real Tequila” Argument

Mexico, like Scotland, France and Italy, has very strict regulations about the making and labeling of its national products. For something to be called “tequila,” it has to follow certain parameters, including point of origin, raw ingredients and distillation methods. According to 818’s Instagram, Ms. Jenner’s spirit is made from 100% blue agave in a distillery in Jalisco, Mexico. Legally, that’s a tequila; additionally, were 818 to be made elsewhere, Jenner could not call it tequila, let alone enter it into competitions.

The social media user who wrote that “real Tequila is from Mexico” is correct. That doesn’t mean 818 is not real tequila.

The “Is This Even a Mexican Product?” Argument

By order of the Mexican government, every tequila carries an identifying number, or NOM, which traces back to the distillery that made it.

Major names such as Patron and Don Julio have their own distilleries; that’s because they can afford to build and staff them. The vast majority of tequila brands are small businesses, and they go to for-hire distilleries that churn out whatever blend is asked for.

By looking up a brand’s NOM, you can look up not only what distillery made it, but what other products that distillery churns out. 818 is tagged as NOM 1137, which links to La Cofradia, a private distillery that offers a range of production and fermentation styles including open-air fermentation, steel tanks, and tahona extraction. They also offer multiple aging options, ranging from French and American oak to cognac and bourbon casks. La Cofradia has over 60 brands currently in production, including small brands such as Adoro Tequila, Casa Noble, and Cazul 100.

How Tasting and Blending Works

Several users were riled up that Ms. Jenner merely “tried” tequilas until she found one she liked. That’s not entirely correct. There was umbrage over her caption saying she “created” this spirit. It could be poor word choice, but it’s not unlike saying that someone “created” a new perfume, for example.

In spirits, typically, a client will ask a distiller or a winemaker to make them a blend in the style of something they like. You could ask a winemaker to craft something that’s similar to Whispering Angel, for example.

The client will then taste multiple samples and give notes on what they like. Before Post Malone launched his rose wine, Maison No. 9, he and his team spent days tasting various blends at the winery that would eventually make his wine. Every spirit goes through multiple tastings before it is bottled; that’s part of the process. That step can be done by a master distiller, but if the owner of a brand gets to have input on what they want, this is completely above board and typical.

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